Wednesday, April 14, 2010

The current Machu Picchu situation

Peruvian trains, planes and combis

In January torential rains wiped out the train tracks that connect Aguas Caliente/Machu Picchu town to Cusco. The Peruvian government closed Machu Picchu in response and began extensive work to rebuild the tracks. On April 1st, the train and Machu Picchu reopened and, to the intrepid traveler, it is possible to see the ancient ruins. There is no rail service between Cusco and Aguas Caliente; therefore, day trips to see Machu Picchu are not an option. Plan for two days to see Machu Picchu if you choose to make the journey. Full train service between these two cities will be restored in June and that time day trippers will return.

Currently, to reach the ruins a traveler must make their way to KM. 82, where train travel currently begins (this is also the starting point for the Inca Trail.). The best way to reach KM. 82 is:
  • Take a combi from Cusco to Olltaytantambo (1 hour and 20 minutes). Cost: 10 soles

  • Catch the free shuttle service offered by the train companies to KM 82. Shuttles depart from the station next to the train station (1 hour). Cost: free

  • Train service to Aguas Caliente/Machu Picchu Pueblo (1 hour)
Here is the make-shift train station constructed at Km. 82:








The shuttle service from Km. 82 to Ollantaytambo











This schedule is tentative, and plan for delays. The road from Olltaytantambo is narrow and unpaved; only one shuttle can pass at a time. As a result, you will find yourself waiting for long stretches to prevent backups. The journey from Aguas Caliente to Cusco (from hostal to hostal) took us 6 hours and 30 minutes.

Train Service/Company:

Recommended: IncaRail. This upstart has only a small bite of the rail service market, but its customer service far exceeds behemoth PeruRail. When a member of my group fell seriously ill during the train, the attendants checked on her reguarly. They boarded us first onto the shuttles, saved a seat so she could lie down, and when we reached Olltantaymbo they immediately hired a combi to take us to Cusco.


The reward for your work: very few tourists at an otherwise heavily-visited area.

Machu Picchu, as I saw it.


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