Sunday, November 01, 2009
More teachers, few troops.
Op-Ed Columnist
It Takes a School, Not Missiles
By NICHOLAS D. KRISTOF
Published: July 13, 2008
Since 9/11, Westerners have tried two approaches to fight terrorism in Pakistan, President Bush’s and Greg Mortenson’s.
Mr. Bush has focused on military force and provided more than $10 billion — an extraordinary sum in the foreign-aid world — to the highly unpopular government of President Pervez Musharraf. This approach has failed: the backlash has radicalized Pakistan’s tribal areas so that they now nurture terrorists in ways that they never did before 9/11.
Mr. Mortenson, a frumpy, genial man from Montana, takes a diametrically opposite approach, and he has spent less than one-ten-thousandth as much as the Bush administration. He builds schools in isolated parts of Pakistan and Afghanistan, working closely with Muslim clerics and even praying with them at times.
The only thing that Mr. Mortenson blows up are boulders that fall onto remote roads and block access to his schools.
Mr. Mortenson has become a legend in the region, his picture sometimes dangling like a talisman from rearview mirrors, and his work has struck a chord in America as well. His superb book about his schools, “Three Cups of Tea,” came out in 2006 and initially wasn’t reviewed by most major newspapers. Yet propelled by word of mouth, the book became a publishing sensation: it has spent the last 74 weeks on the paperback best-seller list, regularly in the No. 1 spot.
Now Mr. Mortenson is fending off several dozen film offers. “My concern is that a movie might endanger the well-being of our students,” he explains.
Mr. Mortenson found his calling in 1993 after he failed in an attempt to climb K2, a Himalayan peak, and stumbled weakly into a poor Muslim village. The peasants nursed him back to health, and he promised to repay them by building the village a school.
Scrounging the money was a nightmare — his 580 fund-raising letters to prominent people generated one check, from Tom Brokaw — and Mr. Mortenson ended up selling his beloved climbing equipment and car. But when the school was built, he kept going. Now his aid group, the Central Asia Institute, has 74 schools in operation. His focus is educating girls.
To get a school, villagers must provide the land and the labor to assure a local “buy-in,” and so far the Taliban have not bothered his schools. One anti-American mob rampaged through Baharak, Afghanistan, attacking aid groups — but stopped at the school that local people had just built with Mr. Mortenson. “This is our school,” the mob leaders decided, and they left it intact.
Mr. Mortenson has had setbacks, including being kidnapped for eight days in Pakistan’s wild Waziristan region. It would be naïve to think that a few dozen schools will turn the tide in Afghanistan or Pakistan.
Still, he notes that the Taliban recruits the poor and illiterate, and he also argues that when women are educated they are more likely to restrain their sons. Five of his teachers are former Taliban, and he says it was their mothers who persuaded them to leave the Taliban; that is one reason he is passionate about educating girls.
So I have this fantasy: Suppose that the United States focused less on blowing things up in Pakistan’s tribal areas and more on working through local aid groups to build schools, simultaneously cutting tariffs on Pakistani and Afghan manufactured exports. There would be no immediate payback, but a better-educated and more economically vibrant Pakistan would probably be more resistant to extremism.
“Schools are a much more effective bang for the buck than missiles or chasing some Taliban around the country,” says Mr. Mortenson, who is an Army veteran.
Each Tomahawk missile that the United States fires in Afghanistan costs at least $500,000. That’s enough for local aid groups to build more than 20 schools, and in the long run those schools probably do more to destroy the Taliban.
The Pentagon, which has a much better appreciation for the limits of military power than the Bush administration as a whole, placed large orders for “Three Cups of Tea” and invited Mr. Mortenson to speak.
“I am convinced that the long-term solution to terrorism in general, and Afghanistan specifically, is education,” Lt. Col. Christopher Kolenda, who works on the Afghan front lines, said in an e-mail in which he raved about Mr. Mortenson’s work. “The conflict here will not be won with bombs but with books. ... The thirst for education here is palpable.”
Military force is essential in Afghanistan to combat the Taliban. But over time, in Pakistan and Afghanistan alike, the best tonic against militant fundamentalism will be education and economic opportunity.
So a lone Montanan staying at the cheapest guest houses has done more to advance U.S. interests in the region than the entire military and foreign policy apparatus of the Bush administration.
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Teachers, Not Troops
And ask yourself--what brings on goodwill? Teachers or troops?
More Schools, Not Troops
By NICHOLAS D. KRISTOF
Published: October 28, 2009
Dispatching more troops to Afghanistan would be a monumental bet and probably a bad one, most likely a waste of lives and resources that might simply empower the Taliban. In particular, one of the most compelling arguments against more troops rests on this stunning trade-off: For the cost of a single additional soldier stationed in Afghanistan for one year, we could build roughly 20 schools there.
It’s hard to do the calculation precisely, but for the cost of 40,000 troops over a few years — well, we could just about turn every Afghan into a Ph.D.
The hawks respond: It’s naïve to think that you can sprinkle a bit of education on a war-torn society. It’s impossible to build schools now because the Taliban will blow them up.
In fact, it’s still quite possible to operate schools in Afghanistan — particularly when there’s a strong “buy-in” from the local community.
Greg Mortenson, author of “Three Cups of Tea,” has now built 39 schools in Afghanistan and 92 in Pakistan — and not one has been burned down or closed. The aid organization CARE has 295 schools educating 50,000 girls in Afghanistan, and not a single one has been closed or burned by the Taliban. The Afghan Institute of Learning, another aid group, has 32 schools in Afghanistan and Pakistan, with none closed by the Taliban (although local communities have temporarily suspended three for security reasons).
In short, there is still vast scope for greater investment in education, health and agriculture in Afghanistan. These are extraordinarily cheap and have a better record at stabilizing societies than military solutions, which, in fact, have a pretty dismal record.
In Afghanistan, for example, we have already increased our troop presence by 40,000 troops since the beginning of last year, yet the result has not been the promised stability but only more casualties and a strengthened insurgency. If the last surge of 40,000 troops didn’t help, why will the next one be so different?
Matthew P. Hoh, an American military veteran who was the top civilian officer in Zabul Province, resigned over Afghan policy, as The Washington Post reported this week. Mr. Hoh argues that our military presence is feeding the insurgency, not quelling it.
Already our troops have created a backlash with Kabul University students this week burning President Obama in effigy until police dispersed them with gunshots. The heavier our military footprint, the more resentment — and perhaps the more legitimacy for the Taliban.
Schools are not a quick fix or silver bullet any more than troops are. But we have abundant evidence that they can, over time, transform countries, and in the area near Afghanistan there’s a nice natural experiment in the comparative power of educational versus military tools.
Since 9/11, the United States has spent $15 billion in Pakistan, mostly on military support, and today Pakistan is more unstable than ever. In contrast, Bangladesh, which until 1971 was a part of Pakistan, has focused on education in a way that Pakistan never did. Bangladesh now has more girls in high school than boys. (In contrast, only 3 percent of Pakistani women in the tribal areas are literate.)
Those educated Bangladeshi women joined the labor force, laying the foundation for a garment industry and working in civil society groups like BRAC and Grameen Bank. That led to a virtuous spiral of development, jobs, lower birth rates, education and stability. That’s one reason Al Qaeda is holed up in Pakistan, not in Bangladesh, and it’s a reminder that education can transform societies.
When I travel in Pakistan, I see evidence that one group — Islamic extremists — believes in the transformative power of education. They pay for madrassas that provide free schooling and often free meals for students. They then offer scholarships for the best pupils to study abroad in Wahhabi madrassas before returning to become leaders of their communities. What I don’t see on my trips is similar numbers of American-backed schools. It breaks my heart that we don’t invest in schools as much as medieval, misogynist extremists.
For roughly the same cost as stationing 40,000 troops in Afghanistan for one year, we could educate the great majority of the 75 million children worldwide who, according to Unicef, are not getting even a primary education. We won’t turn them into graduate students, but we can help them achieve literacy. Such a vast global education campaign would reduce poverty, cut birth rates, improve America’s image in the world, promote stability and chip away at extremism.
Education isn’t a panacea, and no policy in Afghanistan is a sure bet. But all in all, the evidence suggests that education can help foster a virtuous cycle that promotes stability and moderation. So instead of sending 40,000 troops more to Afghanistan, how about opening 40,000 schools?
Sunday, June 07, 2009
IRELAND!
A few travel tips on hotels/bed and breakfasts from my recent (April 2009) trip to Ireland!
Dublin:
Best bet: Maldron Hotel Smithfield . This modern hotel is walking distance to downtown (and two blocks from the popular Jameson Distillery). There is a small organic grocery, complete with coffee bar, next to the hotel which is convenient for morning breakfasts. Through an Internet Special I found rooms for 65 Euros a night, a steal for the location.Doolin (the next stop on the itinerary):

Cullinan's Restaurant and Bed and Breakfast: this bed and breakfast is in the heart of Doolin (which does not say much as Doolin is--literally--a two stop sign town and a three pub town, though I only found two) with a delicious gourmet breakfast. Cost: 35 Euros per person/sharing.
Killarney (a jumping off spot for the Dingle Penisula)
Larkinley Lodge was a spectular find as we wandered around lost. It is briefly mentioned in Moon Handbooks Ireland (copyright 2007), but the guidebook, given its dated nature, does not mention the one most important, outstanding fact. Larklinley Lodge was remodeled last year--as it, the owners knocked the building and 
The Larkinley Lodge, as I write, is so new that it is still trying to get its VISA machine working so..right now...it is Euros only. I highly recommend this bed and breakfast!
Saturday, February 07, 2009
Matt Harding
Where in the World is Matt Harding?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlfKdbWwruY
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Slovenia!
After the Global Young Leaders Conference ended in Vienna I packed my business clothes into the bottom of the pack and brought out the those light-weight, durable clothes that are backpackers swear by. It was time for some individual travel time; I hopped a train at Westbanof and bounded off for a 7-day excursion through Croatia and Slovenia.
Travel Tips: Slovenia
Slovenia is a country with a Austrian feel and Yugoslavian past; its is the playground of Europeans and is good for a three-day visit. Its capital, Ljubljana, is surprising chic for a city of 340,000. Slovenia is the most prosperous of the former Yugoslavian republics, and just last year converted to the Euro.
Guide book: Lonely Planet Western Balkans.
I can only comment on the Slovenia and Croatian sections. This is a Lonely Planet first edition and has a fair number of inaccuries. Slovenia has introduced the Euro since this book was published, yet prices are listed in its native currency. The section on Croatia could easily use another 100 pages; current descriptions feel short and very brief. In short, this travel guide could use another 100 or 200 pages easily. As it stands now, it is an adequate travel guide, and Lonely Planet will probably fix these minor annoyances in its second edition.
Suggested Itineraries/Highlights
Day One: Arrive in Ljubljana and the capital. Spend one day wandering the streets and see the Triple Bridge and enjoy the the nightlife along the river.
Day Two: Travel by bus (around 6Euros) to Lake Bled to see the famous church and castle. Take a gondola (around 15 Euros) to the center (or swim!). Stay overnight at the hostel in Bled.
Day Three: Travel by bus to the resort town of Bohinj and take the gondola to the top to the Alps. Return to Ljubljana.
In addition: the Postojna Caves (near the Italian border) are spectacular (so says the backpacker trail)
Places to Stay:
Hostel Celica in Ljubljana may be one of Europe's most unusual. A converted jailhouse, the hostel stands in the middle of Metelkova, a hip, trendy area for emo Slovenia youth (translation: expect some parties and lots of spiked haired teenagers hanging outside the hostel). The hostel is only a 10 minute walk from downtown and even less from the train station: the location is excellent. Other Ljubljana hostels are located in downtown (a fair distance from the train station) or far from both.
Budget for backpackers:
Hostel/Hotel: 17 to 20 Euros
Food: 7 Euros/meal
Bus ticket: 6 Euros/hour
For more information:
Rick Steve's Europe did an episode on Croatia and Slovenia, visiting many of the places to which I traveled. Check out the Youtube video here.
Check out a few photos from the trip here:
Croatia!! Travel tips still to come.
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Global Young Leaders Conference Europe
Sunday, August 31, 2008
Hurricane Katrina--Three Year Anniversary
But today marks the three year anniversary. The city has attemped to move beyond the tragedy of three years ago, but results are mixed. Some neighboorhoods have rebuilt and regained their population. Others, such as the Lower 9th ward, remain vast wastelands with only a handful of brave residents.
The New York Times, in yesterday's edition documents the checkerboard-like post-Katrina recovery with an excellent interactive article.
"The Patchy Return of New Orleans: A walking tour of three neighborhoods last month offered a glimpse into the uneven nature of post-Hurricane Katrina recovery efforts throughout New Orleans. Though in some estimates the city may have recovered up to 70 percent of its population, about 65,000 residences – more than a third of the total – remain blighted."
On my recent trip (mid-June) to New Orleand, these photos were shot in the Lower 9th ward. They document the same checkerboard effect the New York Times noted in their article.
There are still miles to go before this city returns to pre-Katrina strength. As Gustav prepares to strike the northern Gulf Coast, one can only hope that New Orleans is spared the same onslaught it suffered nearly three years ago to the day.
Sunday, January 13, 2008
An Amsterdam New Years!
A New Years in Amsterdam!
Places Visited: Amsterdam, Utrecht, The Hague, Brussels and Bruges.
Saturday, December 29, 2007
Iceland, December, 2007
Iceland Travel Tips:
1) Be Prepared: Iceland is *expensive* by backpacker standards. A slice of pizza? $8.00. A beer? $15.00. Dorm bed: $40. The airport shuttle? $25. Gallon of gas? $8.There are no cheap-eats, no place cheaper to sleep. Just prepared yourself, mentally and financially.
2) The hostel is on the outskirts of town, a far distance from the active downtown area. There are few things nearby.
3) This is Iceland's Friday-night version of Mardi Gras. The Icelandic youth head to friends' houses for a pre-party drinking celebration, then totter down to the locals bars around midnight. The party continues well into the morning, possibly 6 or 7am or so, when the drunken youth head home. The streets are packed as hundreds of individuals drunkenly stumbled from the bars. Then runtur was in full force as I stood, bleery-eyed, in front of my hotel at 5AM Saturday, awaiting my airport shuttle. And this goes on every single Friday, making Iceland one of the hottest party spots in Europe.
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Travel Tips: Nicaragua

Part of the reason I started this blog was to provide travel advice on countries I have visited. Part 1: Nicaragua
Nicaragua: TRAVEL TIPS
Backpackers and tourists are just beginning to explore Nicaragua. Last year (2006) , for the time in country's history, tourism was the highest producing economic sector. Here are a few travel tips:
Best Guide Book: Moon Handbooks Nicaragua (2005) by Randall Wood and Joshua Berman. Both are former Peace Corps volunteers who have extensive knowledge of the country . Lonely Planet El Salvador/Nicaragua gleams over valuable information and offers mediocre travel itineraries. Take the good travel book with you!
Budget for backpackers:
Hostel/Hotel: $7 to $10 a night
Food: $3/meal
Bus tickets: $2 for a 3 trip
Suggested Itineraries/Highlights (3 weeks):
- Granada! Beautiful colonial city. Allow two days. Food? Check out Telepizza (calzones are only $2.25). Hostel? Try Monkey Hut
- Isla de Ometepe: two active volcanoes to hike.
- San Juan del Sur: southern Pacific beach town
- Leon: Granada's colonial rival and located in the northwestern corner of Nicaragua
- Esteli: the third-largest city, located in the northern highlands, has a progressive feel and is a great hopping off point for the Nicaraguan mountains
- Selva Negra, the ecotourism farm in Nicaragua rainforest
- Corn Island, located off the Atlantic coast, has a British/Creole influence. It's like a mini-Jamaica in Nicaragua.
Managua: A quick word of advice. There is a great deal to see and do in Nicaragua and would advise leaving Nicaragua's capital as soon as possible. Managua makes up for its' few tourist sites by offering massive amounts of urban sprawl and crime. From the airport, it is possible to take taxis directly to bus stations. Avoid Managua, if at all possible.
Buses: The bus system is cheap and relatively efficient. Express buses are usually charter buses; second class buses are usually discontinued American school buses. Bus schedules are not posted; just ask the locals.
Border Crossings: Unless you are extremely versed in immigration procedures or hold a high degree of Spanish, I highly recommend taking the TicaBus between countries. Its employees cross borders daily and are familiar with border-crossing procedures; this allows for an efficient and speedy exit and entrance. The TicaBus runs daily between Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama.
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Volcan Masaya
Chontales, Nicaragua



Monday, October 15, 2007
Women´s Rights
Nicaraguan women face a number of difficulties. Gender roles and stereotypes are very prevalent in this country, and women are often treated as second-class citizens in this society. Machismo rules and women often lose.
Men are the breadwinners of the family, while women´s roles tend to be inside the home. the daily lives of amas de casa )housewives) consist of cleaning, hand-washing clothes, cooking, helping children with homework and tending to the needs of their husbands. Sons are encouraged to participate in activities outside the home while daughters are expected to be take a family position similar to their mother´s role. For these daughters, when they attempt to move beyond their assigned gender roles, they are chastised with a ¨You can´t do that.¨ This passive rearing discourages many girls from attending school and exploring the greater world.
In addition, 75 percent of Nicaraguan women are single mothers. Many men are farm-laborers who spend many months away from home. Other men seek work in nearby Costa Rica or attempt to illegally immigrate to the United States in hopes of finding a well-paying job. Over a 1 million Nicaraguans work in Costa Rica and the United States. These forces the separation of many families in Nicaragua and women are left raising children on their on. In addition, it is not unusual for men to have children with a number of women. A man may take a wife and have a family but also maintains a number of girlfriends and mistresses. This family structure is often acceptable by women and encouraged by men.
Also, few economic opportunities outside the home exist for women. Many are wholly dependent on men for their economic livelihood. Those that do work often run pulperias...mini-convenience stores, baking or vending items. All decisions concerning money are made by men. It is not unusual for a father to head to a bar after work and leave his family home alone. Alcohol abuse is rampant in Nicaragua. In addition, social norms dictate women are not permitted to drink.
As a Peace Corps volunteer, I find myself challenged every day by these gender roles. to a degree, as a outsider, I am expected from a number of these roles but as a volunteer, I also need to respect the traditions of a country. This is a fine line to tread and a difficult situation that all volunteers experience.
Thursday, September 27, 2007
Photos from a nicaragua public school
student desk
the classroom. there are two fifth grade classes at the school. my class has 38 students. Yes, 38..in one classroom. The idea of doing participatory education is almost absurd; how can one find an activity for 38 students?! Moving 38 students around a classroom is chaotic. I can understand why teachers lecture for hours on end; it makes for easier classroom management.
Monday, September 17, 2007
dia de la independecia

september 14th is independence day in nicaragua. here are a few photos from the celebration in my town of Masetepe. The day started with a parade of children through the streets and conclude with ballet folkorico at the town square (where two Peace Corps trainnes and I retained VIP seating were introduced to the crowd as the official representatives from the organization...hopefully, no one will find out this is only training!(

the children performing a native dance

native dance


drummers in native dress

Night in Nicaragua.
Monday, September 10, 2007
Daily Routine

Mass at the local Catholic church
Thursday, September 06, 2007
Monday, September 03, 2007
Peace Corps Nicaragua
In my host family, I have a host father, mother, and grandmother. We definitely life well compared to other Nicaragua families. I have my own room and bathroom, and the house has satellite television on a big screen TV. Due to an nationwide energy crisis, the electricity regularly winks out. At my house, there is no power between 8AM and 2PM on Monday and Wednesday and Saturday. That also means there is no phone service. In addition, the water goes out. On most days, we have water from 4am to 7am and 2pm to 8am. On good days, we have water, phone and electricity and the same time. if we are lucky. buena suerte!!
Saturday, August 25, 2007
Katrina Anniversary
As the two-year anniversary of Hurricane Katrina approaches, Time examines why New Orleans still is not safe and why another disaster could sink the city. The article turns fault to the shoddy planning US Army Corps of Engineers and coastal erosion. Louisiana is losing its' precious wetlands, which absorb hurricane storm surges, at the rate of a football field every 8 minutes. In addition the Mississippi River Gulf Outlet (MrGo) channel, which was built by the Army Corps to provide a direct, deep shipping route from the Gulf to New Orleans, allowed flood waters to speed towards the city. Finally, the mass media understands what New Orleans citizens have known for years."The most important thing to remember about the drowning of New Orleans is that it wasn't a natural disaster. It was a man-made disaster, created by lousy engineering, misplaced priorities and pork-barrel politics. Katrina was not the Category 5 killer the Big Easy had always feared; it was a Category 3 storm that missed New Orleans, where it was at worst a weak 2. The city's defenses should have withstood its surges, and if they had we never would have seen the squalor in the Superdome, the desperation on the rooftops, the shocking tableau of the Mardi Gras city underwater for weeks. We never would have heard the comment "Heckuva job, Brownie." The Federal Emergency Management Agency (fema) was the scapegoat, but the real culprit was the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, which bungled the levees that formed the city's man-made defenses and ravaged the wetlands that once formed its natural defenses. Americans were outraged by the government's response, but they still haven't come to grips with the government's responsibility for the catastrophe."
More here:
http://www.time.com/time/specials/2007/article/0,28804,1646611_1646683_1648904,00.html
Sunday, August 19, 2007
T-minus 8-days to staging
Staging
Peace Corps Nicaragua's Staging begins on August 27th in Washington, DC. Staging is a two-day event in which all Nica 45 volunteers must attend in order to be familiarized with Peace Corps policies and regulations. In addition, volunteers receive their first round of shots and malaria vaccinations during staging. There should be about 35 members of Nica 45, all Agricultural or Environmental Education volunteers.
(By the way, the name "Nica 45" is the moniker given to my fellow trainees because we are the 45th class in Nicaragua. Clever, no?)
What's Up Next?
On August 29th, the Nica 45 volunteers fly to Managua, where they will be greeted by the Peace Corps in-country staff. After another two days of orientation, volunteers are placed with local families in Jinotepe and three months of language and occupational training begins. When training is complete PCVs (Peace Corps Volunteers) are placed then placed at the sites where they will volunteer for 24 months. My Internet access should be fairly regular so expect updates every one to two weeks for the next few months.
Visiting
I welcome all of you to visit! Peace Corps volunteers get a month of vacation time each year, so any time you wish to travel you will have a free place to stay and a free tour guide in Nicaragua!





